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How
to use Pigment Colors- By Dr. Lisa Z. Lam |
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(*MP=
Micro Pigment *
DD= Double Drop Pigments.
* ML= Magic Line)
Fitzpatrick Skin Types 1 –6 (lighter to darker skin tone) |
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Colors are optional for different skin tones. Client’s needs are
always considered. This is a ..general
guideline for choosing color in Permanent Makeup for Brows, Eyeliner
and Lips. |
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Do not mix pigments of different brands.
..Shake well each time before use.
• To prevent from Cross Contamination: Never touch pigment bottle
with contaminated gloves ..or
pigment containers. |
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Click
color below for information |
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Eyebrow Colors |
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Chocolate
Brown (MP):
Use this color for Asian, African American, Latino and/or olive skin people.
A Light Brown can be added to achieve a softer look. Add Red or Orange
to prevent any Grey/Blue tones. |
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Coffee
Bean (DD):
A medium brown. Use with light to medium brown hair color or neutralize
it with an olive base if needed. Great for brows on Auburn and Redheaded
clients. |
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Dark
Brown (MP):
Ash base. Lighter than Chocolate Brown, can be used on all skin tones.
However, mostly used on Asian, Latino and/or olive skin. Add Orange or
Light Brown will produce a more natural look. |
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Deep
Brown (DD):
A deep rich brown. Used with Midnight Black will give the most natural
and darkest brown eyeliner, but not black. This mixture is good for eyebrows
on Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin tones. |
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Espresso
(DD):
A very dark rich brown, add orange to prevent color from turning too dark,
for Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin tones. |
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Brown
(MP):
Reddish base, mostly used for people with red hair because of the warm,
red tone in this pigment. If skin has a lot of yellow tones, this color
will add warmer brown tone. |
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Golden
Brown (DD):
The lightest brown available in Double Drop and good for Blondes. Add
Taupe to prevent color from fade to Orange, good for Fitzpatrick 1-2 skin
tones. |
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Light
Brown (MP):
Golden Base, used for people with Anglo or light skin for softer look.
Add a little bit Yellow or Taupe for blondish look. Good for Fitzpatrick
1-3 skin tones. |
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Mocha
(DD):
A darker blonde color. Use with Purple Corrector or Olive to create an
ash base to neutralize warm tones, good for Fitzpatrick 1-3 skin tones. |
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Raisin
(DD):
A reddish brown color, add rose red for neutral color or blush for darker
shades. |
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Taupe
(MP):
Yellow Base, this color is for people with Blonde Hair and Fair Skin.
Also, used for people want to enhance their Eyebrow Shades. Good for Fitzpatrick
1-2 skin tones. |
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Gray
(MP):
This color is for people with salt and pepper Gray Hair. Add Taupe or
Light Brown to lighten or mix with Dark Brown for Asian. |
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NOTE:
All the above mentioned pigments can be mixed to obtain different shades.
To prevent eyebrow fade to Orange, Pink or Purple, Initially add a drop
of Taupe, Olive or Purple Corrector to desired Brown Colors. For Feathering
Touch Eyebrow, use one shade darker than the required color. |
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Eyeliner
Colors |
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Espresso
(DD):
A Dark Rich Brown, mix with Blacks for a Brown Black Eyeliner. |
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Chocolate
Brown (MP):
Cooler than Espresso, for people have Gray Eyes, want to have soft eyeliner.
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Blue
(MP):
Pure Blue color, add Black on Eyelash Roots area, mix with Gray or Taupe
for soft Blue Shadow on the top of Black Eyeliner. |
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Green
(MP):
Mix with True Black or Espresso for People have Green Eyes. Mix with Taupe,
Gray or Brown for different shades of Green Eye Shadow. |
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Black
(MP):
A soft Black Eyeliner. Add Orange or Blue Corrector to prevent from fading
to blue. |
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Jet
Black (MP):
Carbon Base, our blackest black, adds Orange or Red to prevent fading
to Blue.
Special formulation for Soft Black Eyeliner:
One drop of Jet Black + one drop of Midnight Black + one drop of Fire
Red. |
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Midnight
Black (DD):
Not the darkest black available, but needs a complimentary base of Fire
Red to maintain true color.
Ideal for clients want soft black eyeliner. |
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True
Black (ML):
A pre-mix color ready to use,
will give a very dark yet matted looking eyeliner or add orange on people
have natural black eyebrows that need add some Feather Lines. |
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Wet
Black (ML):
A pre-mix color ready to use, will give a very dark and glossy looking
black eyeliner. |
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Lip
Colors |
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Blush
(DD):
A soft earthy red color, mix with rose red for softer fresh color; darken
with Mystic Red, Raisin, lighten with skin or Magic Color.
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Rose
Red (MP):
Neutral soft rose color, mix with Pink Mauve for rosier pinky lips. Darken
with Mystic Red. Good for Fitzpatrick 1-3 Skin Tones |
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Japanese
Red (MP):
Neutral Soft Red,
add Dark Red for darker lip liner, add Hot Pink to highlight pout area.
Soften by mixing with Skin. |
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Mystic
Red (DD):
An earthy brick shade,
lighten with rose red. Add orange to neutralize the blue undertone, for
Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin tones. |
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Real
Red (MP):
True red lip color, adds Orange for darker skin tone to maintain brightness.
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Red
Wine(MP):
Dark Mauve Lip Color, add Orange to prevent from turning too dark. |
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Dark
Red (MP)
Dark
earthy red lip color, adds Orange to prevent from turning to blue on darker
skin tones. |
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Pink
Mauve (MP):
Soft pink lip Color, mix with White (with caution) for brighter pink or
to highlight pout area. Good for Fitzpatrick 1-3. |
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Strawberry
(DD):
A rich, coral color. Ideal for clients who love oranges, bronze and warm
tones. |
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Burgundy
(MP):
A deep berry lip color, adds Strawberry to prevent from turning to blue
on darker skin tones. |
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Sunset
Orange (MP):
A soft orange red lip color. |
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Fire
Red (DD):
An intense and vibrant red. Compliment many different skin tones, light
or dark. Add Orange to keep brightness on darker skin tones. |
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Cranberry
(DD):
A dark berry color. Add Strawberry to neutralize blue tones. |
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Pink
(DD):
A soft, gentle pink that will fade to a very natural, almost nude shade.
Mix with Rose Red for added depth. |
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Hot
Pink (DD):
Goes on bright but will soften to true pink. Mix with Japanese Red for
added vibrancy and fade resistance. |
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NOTE:
All Lip Pigments can be mixed to obtain different colors. Add
Orange or Strawberry for Fitzpatrick 4 and higher Skin Tones to prevent
color from turning to Blue. The Darker the Skin Tone, the more Orange
you needed to add. It’s available to do full lip for very dark lips
but will need more two touch ups. |
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Corrector
Colors |
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Yellow
(MP):
Lighten dark brown colors or change dark eyebrow to lighter shade. |
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Taupe
(MP):
Neutralizes darker shades of orange, pink or purple eyebrows or mix with
brown colors to prevent brow turning to orange, pink and purple. |
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Olive
(MP):
Neutralizes lighter shades of Orange, Pink or Purple, mix with Brown colors
to prevent brow from turning to Orange, Pink and Purple. |
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Purple
Corrector (ML):
Use this color on purple, orange or pink eyebrows. Or mix with brown colors
to prevent brow turning to orange, pink and purple. |
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Orange
(MP):
Neutralizes darker shade of bluish or gray tones brows and lips, for blue
eyebrow correction don’t use alone need dilute with 10-20 drops
water (Add lip color for darker skin tone to prevent lip turning lip turning
to blue) Add to black to prevent eyeliner turning to blue. |
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Blue
Brow Neutralizer (MP):
Lighten and neutralize blue-grayish eyebrow.
Lighten lip and areola colors. |
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Blue
Brow Corrector (ML):
Use this color to correct blue, gray, greenish-blue eyebrows. After corrected,
the brow will turn to a brown shade. |
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Blue
Lip Corrector (ML):
Use on top of a blue or brownish correction area to neutralize. Can be
used alone as a lip color or mix with other lip color to prevent from
color turning too blue. Not strong enough for correcting very dark lips.
Use orange or strawberry for very black lip correction. |
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Strawberry
(DD):
A great blue lips corrector, use straight on blue black lip area or mix
with lip colors to prevent lip from turning to blue. |
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Beige
(MP):
Camouflage and cover small mistakes for lighter skin tones (dilute with
water 1:1), darken by mix skin (or Magic Color) or Taupe to match the
skin tones. |
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Skin
(DD):
A flesh tone used to lighten and soften the lip and Areola Pigments and
to camouflage lighter shade eyebrow or lips mistakes or scar camouflage
(dilute with water) mix with beige or taupe to match the skin tone. |
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Magic
Color (ML):
Used alone or with Beige or Taupe to create and match the right skin tone.
This color will blend well and leave NO RESIDUE. Can be used on all areas
for any type of camouflaging, on eyebrow, eyeliner and the lips. If you
are qualified, use this for paramedical procedures (scar camouflage) as
well. |
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White
(MP):
Lighten lip colors (use with caution!). Don’tmix with brow colors;
never use it alone for camouflage!! |
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NOTE:
If eyebrow is too dark, it’s very difficult to do color correction
or camouflage. Use Fade 1-3 times (once every 6 weeks) until color faded
to lighter shade then does color correction and camouflage. |
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Areola
Colors |
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Rose
Red (MP):
A neutral rosy pinky color, add skin for more soft shade. |
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Blush
(DD):
A soft earthy red color, mix with Rose Red for more fresh color; darken
with Raisin, lighten with Beige or Skin (or Magic Color). |
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Raisin
(DD):
A reddish brown color, add rose red for neutral color or blush for darker
shades. |
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Mystic
Red (DD):
An earthy brick shade, lighten with rose red. Add orange to neutralize
the blue undertone, for Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin tones. |
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Espresso
(DD):
A very dark rich brown, add orange to prevent color from turning too dark,
for Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin tones. |
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Skin
(DD):
A flesh tone used to lighten and soften the lip and Areola Pigments. |
